Bitter Pops

Yes, order the espresso martini

Bitter Pops looks and smells like somewhere to order a beer. Large screens announce the day’s taps, wood paneling gives the room a slightly rustic feel, and TVs make a game an easy part of the evening. There is something familiar about it, almost like a college bar with a little more polish and a much better reason to stay for food.

The mood is casual and unpretentious. Bring friends, stop in on a weekday or settle in for a big game. Nothing about the room demands an occasion. Its pleasures begin with how easily it works, then become more interesting when the food and cocktails arrive.

A burger that belongs here

The smash burger is excellent: well seasoned beef, melted American cheese and a fresh bun, with all the mess and indulgence the setting invites. It is exactly the sort of food you want with a game on, carrying a little of the pleasure of eating inside the stadium.

The combination matters. This is not a delicate plate that feels out of place beside a TV and a beer. It suits the room completely, while being good enough to become part of the reason to choose Bitter Pops in the first place.

The other surprise

Then there is the Espresso Martini. In a room that points so clearly toward beer, it is an unexpectedly good order. The bar makes it to order and gives it proper attention, rather than dispensing it from a tap or treating it as an afterthought.

The surprise is about execution, not a radical new recipe. Bitter Pops also runs a coffee program, which makes the quality less mysterious. The cocktail still feels like a discovery: something the room gives you little reason to expect, then delivers with confidence.

The cocktail selection is limited, and that is worth keeping in mind. Come looking for a small, capable program rather than a long evening of ambitious cocktail exploration.

Keep the plan easy

Service is friendly and knowledgeable in the most relaxed way. There is no ceremony around that competence, and no need for any. Order the burger, give the espresso martini a chance and let the game or the company take care of the rest. The surprises are the reason to go; the easy atmosphere is why they fit so well.